Is WarmWire Made in The USA?

Yes and proudly. WarmWire floor heating cable is made in America, by Americans, for American Homes right in Springfield, MO. WarmWire is part of Watts Radiant, who specializes in the manufacture of Radiant Floor Heat Systems for all needs and applications. From Football stadium turf (I know, it seems strange, but it is TRUE) to your bathroom. Most other systems are made outside the USA, but I would rather keep the jobs here in America. WarmWire in floor heating systems carry a 25 Year warranty which is transferable and is backed by Watts Radiant.

What Makes WarmWire Unique?

Even though WarmWire is very thin for a low profile installation it heats the floor making your home extremely comfortable and is constructed of extremely high quality materials. WarmWire emits Zero EMF (Electro Magnetic Field) and is extremely safe WarmWire is the ONLY product INDEPENDENTLY tested for EMF exposure which achieves a near-ZERO rating. Compare the WarmWire construction to any competitor; our superior wire construction assures safety and long life. And with the new Polyurethane outer covering is WaterPROOF for Shower Floor Installation.

Why is WARMWIRE’s ultra-low EMF important?

WarmWire is the ONLY manufacturer that has undergone INDEPENDENT testing for EMF or Electro Magnetic Field emission. The results of this testing shows WarmWire Floor warming to be the SAFEST with the LOWEST emissions. See the results don’t just take a website’s claims as truth or believe everything you read – look To WarmWire for Safety and testing to support our statements.

EMF stands for Electro Magnetic Field and is a byproduct of alternating electric current passing through wires and appliances. Human exposure to ambient levels of EMF is the subject of continuing scientific scrutiny and the results are a matter of public record. For those who are concerned, the Federal Government recommends minimizing exposure to EMF in the home and workplace. Elevated EMF levels can also interfere with electronic devices including computer screens and audio equipment and is usually included on lists of causes for “sick building syndrome” and sources of interference.

There is no practical technology to completely shield an electric heating element in order to minimize EMF. The only viable approach is to spiral two wires side by side so the fields cancel each other. Watts Radiant innovated this approach years ago and was granted U.S. patent number 6,303,905. The EMF generated at floor level by radiant floor heating systems that use only one wire is many times normal ambient levels. Using dual wires for EMF cancellation is more expensive, but it is the safest choice. Any single wire heating element used in radiant floor heating is a compromise and should, in our opinion, be avoided.

Safer electronic emission practices have been adopted by manufacturers of microwave ovens, video monitors and cell phones to name a few. WarmWire has already taken this important step and is another reason why it is your safest and best choice for Floor Warming. Other Manufacturers minimize the importance of EMF…Could this be because they do NOT meet the same superior standard WarmWire meets? Is it worth the risk to you and your family? We do not think so.

How far does the heat radiate from the Heating Wire?

The heat will only radiate a maximum of 1-1/2” from the Heating Elements. Make certain to install WarmWire right up to the face of cabinets, sinks, vanities, and toilets (stay 4 inches away from the wax ring), if you want those areas warm. Especially important are the “Toekick” areas of cabinets so you are sure to have warm toes! Never space the wire farther apart than 3 inches or closer than 2 inches.

What WarmWire Spacing do you recommend?

2-1/2 inch spacing is the most popular. If you are installing WarmWire directly on a concrete slab, we would recommend 2 inch spacing for maximum heat output of 15 watts/SF. 3” spacing drops the heat output 33% to 10 watts/SF – which is pretty low for except for those occasional use spaces.

Why Does WarmWire have only one connection at the beginning of the wire and other products have connections at each end of their product?

We use a dual wire construction that electricians and tile installers really appreciate. At the end of our wire, you’ll notice a small black factory assembly where the heating wires are crimped, soldered, and wrapped with shrink-tube. Other products make you figure out how to get both ends of the heating element back to point you started from. WarmWire gives you a single connection to make: at the control where you started laying out your wire. Floor warming wires with two power leads are a big hassle… and we’ve eliminated that hassle and made it easier to install a floor heating system.

Is WarmWire an efficient way to heat?

All the electricity used by the WarmWire wires is converted to useful heat; that makes it 99%+ efficient. Gas appliances only convert a percentage to heat; the rest is lost up the stack. Of course, for many people, gas or oil is more economical per BTU than electricity, even considering the conversion loss. A lot depends on the price you pay for these energy sources and how careful you are with insulation. Generally speaking, WarmWire systems are used to warm fairly small areas and most people use programmable controls or timers so they are not warming the floor all the time. Radiant floor heating is a much more efficient way to warm a space than forced air or baseboard (which works by mostly warming the air). Radiant systems broadcast energy at the speed of light from the floor to warm all the surfaces of the room. The air temperature stays lower so there is less heat loss through windows and air infiltration, yet your comfort is greater. In other words, you Feel warmer.

What’s the warranty on WarmWire and how long do you think it will last?

We offer an Industry Leading 25 year warranty that is unusual in our industry. We think the product will last a great deal longer because of several design decisions we made years ago. The great danger to any heating cable in a bathroom floor is oxidation caused by moisture. So, we use a very expensive wire insulation called Tefzel by DuPont. The physical properties of this polymer are unmatched for the application, notably its water resistance, dielectric properties and long-term temperature aging. We also use oxygen-free alloys in our heating elements to give them greater longevity. No one builds a better heating element wire than WarmWire. Compare our wire construction to other systems - your choice will be clear. Furthermore, Watts is a 135 year old USA manufacturer, with $1.4 Billion in sales. So there’s a Real USA manufacturer standing behind the warranty. Not an importer or offshore manufacturer. WarmWire is made in America, by Americans, for American homes. Several competitors produce their products offshore, but not WarmWire.

Can I use WarmWire in the shower floor?

YES! In Dec. 2009 WarmWire received UL Listing for shower floors. That extra layer of clear polyurethane allows this revolutionary benefit. All WarmWire sold by Warm Your Floor since Jan.1, 2010 is the New “J-series” wire and can be installed in the shower floor.

Can I use WarmWire to heat my space or just warm the floor?

For most homes, WarmWire serves as a floor warming supplement to your existing heating system. However, the wire does generate up to 51 BTUs per square foot of heated area (at 2 inch spacing), which is as much as any Hydronic heating system. Because WarmWire is not installed under built-ins, cabinets, or walls, the wire may not be able to match the heating load of the room. If you plan to use WarmWire as the primary heat for your space, send us a floor plan, noting exposed walls, windows, ceiling, etc and all the associated R-values. If you do not know the R-values, just tell us the thickness of the walls and ceiling and whether the windows are single- or double-pane. We will calculate the heat load of the room and select a wire that meets that load or comes as close as possible. Click here to get our Heat Load Form

Is WarmWire easy to install?

Yes. It takes a little more time than using a mat system because you effectively weave your own mat on the floor using the WarmWire Straps and looping the wire back and forth on your own.

How do I secure the WarmWire strap to a slab?

Drilling holes and fastening the strap with screws is an approved method. If you have backerboard over plywood, you can use nails or screws to hold the strap. The fastest and easiest way, however, is to spray the back of the strap with high-strength spray adhesive. Hot glue is a good alternative to spray adhesive. We also include double-sided tape in our kits (or you can purchase it separately), and this works well, especially over concrete.

If I install WarmWire in only part of my floor will the heat spread?

No, so plan ahead. If your floor area is 5 feet wide, and you only heat the 3 feet in front of the sink, the rest of the floor will be cold and stay cold. The heat will only radiate 1-1/2 inches. Consider heating all the areas you walk or stand. Install the wire right up the face of vanities and into the kick space where your toes will be. Install 4-6 inches from the wax ring of the toilet and 3-4 inches from where you emerge from a shower or bath – OR, better yet, heat your shower floor using a SunTouch Mat! Any walkways or doorways are good choices for WarmWire. A radiant floor feels so good that adjoining areas without wires FEEL colder and are quite noticeable. Once you try WarmWire, you will be addicted to heated floors!

Can I use WarmWire outside?

No. Our wire is Underwriter Laboratory (UL) Listed for interior floor heating. We are not UL Listed for snow melting because the wire is not designed to give off enough heat for that purpose. WarmWire wires do work great for heating steps around spas and tubs. You simply need more wattage to melt snow. If you want to melt snow or heat outside areas, consider ProMelt from SunTouch

Will WarmWire warm carpet or a floating wood floor? How about Laminate?

Yes. Install & attach WarmWire wires to your subfloor and cover with a thin layer of self leveling mortar on top. This will add only slightly more than a quarter inch rise to your floor. The mortar spreads the heat evenly and helps protect the heating wires from sharp objects that might penetrate the floor. This installation is UL Approved. Be wary of systems that install directly under carpet - check for a UL Listing and assess their ability to withstand furniture placement and safety in the event the carpet gets wet by a spill or accident.

We know of one manufacturer of a wire for directly under carpet; but we will not sell it. We simply do NOT believe it is safe. It has a short warranty and is made offshore. What happens if you put a heavy piece of furniture right on a wire with this wire? We’ll stick with our quality products that get encased in a thin layer of mortar for YOUR protection.

How about WarmWire & heating my sunroom?

YES! These areas can be hard to heat, but WarmWire Electric Radiant often costs less than the alternatives. Compare the easy to install & invisible WarmWire to bulky baseboard units that take up valuable space and heat the air, which then immediately moves to the top of the room where it is wasted. Forced air systems are even worse, and they blow pollutants and dust around as well. With a WarmWire system, you will have warm feet in your room during virtually any weather, day or night. A programmable thermostat will allow you to heat on your schedule. If the heat loss from your room is more than WarmWire wires can provide, we will recommend supplementary heat. Sunrooms and WarmWire are a natural combination and we have many successful installations.

240V vs. 120V – Are 120 volt WarmWire wires more efficient than 240 volt?

No. Both have the same efficiency and both wires use 10 to 15 watts per square foot. 240 volt wires operate with half the amperage (current) of 120 volt models. The 240 volt models are more popular for larger installations of over 150 Sq Ft, for rooms where you want a lower amperage service, or for rooms where 240V is already in place. Once again, WarmWire has thought of all the options!

Thick Stone – Is 3/4″ granite too thick or too heavy for WarmWire wires?

Stone is a great conductor of heat. 3/4″ thickness is not a problem for heat transfer or weight. As with all Radiant Floor Heating systems, a thicker floor will mean a slower response time than 5/16” tile. But once a thicker floor is warm, it stays warmer longer, using its stored energy.

Are ALL Types & Sizes of tiles suitable for a WarmWire warm floor?

Glass, ceramic, porcelain, stone, marble, granite and slate floors are all excellent choices with WarmWire. 1”x1” Mosaic to 4′ x 4′ slabs of Limestone You are only limited by your creativity. See our complete installation instructions for details on tiles smaller than 6 inches. If you are not sure just call us toll free 866-558-3369.

Spool Sizes For the Smallest to Largest spaces. Need to warm a small 8 Sq Ft. area? We have it! If you have a little wire left over, you can always use it up by laying it along the side and behind the toilet. But, you can Never cut the heating wire to shorten it. We stock 14 sizes in 2 voltages to help you fit any shape or size room - that is how flexible WarmWire is. Our largest SunTouch floor warming job is almost 8,000 Sq feet UNDER CARPET (set in mortar) right here in Sunny Southern California! And we have helped do tens of thousands in between. Let yours be next!

How close can I put my WarmWire wire to a wall, a toilet or other objects?

We recommend you stay 3 to 6 inches away from walls to make sure trim nails or screws do not penetrate the wire during construction after you have installed it. Do not melt that Wax Ring on the toilet flange - stay 4-6 inches away. Cabinets, toekicks, etc. You do not want warm heels and cold toes, so get right up into the toekick space. Remember, the floor will only heat 1-1/2 inches away from the edge of the wire, so use care to not stop short.

How can I make the power leads (Cold Leads) longer?

You can extend your Power Leads by routing them to an electrical junction box in the wall where you can connect them to standard 14-gauge electrical wire. Then you can run 14 gage AWG electrical wires through the wall to your Thermostat Control. Most local codes require you to make these connections in the junction box and to provide access to the box when the wall is finished. Check your local code for details.

NEVER run the heating portion of the wire anywhere except IN THE FINISHED FLOOR. Do not put the splice or heating wire in the wall or outside the mortar bed.

What gauge wire is appropriate if I decide to extend my Power Leads?

14 gauge AWG electrical wire is appropriate for a load of 15 amps in most city electrical codes, but in all cases, follow your local code.

Can I put the sensor wire and the Power Leads in the same electrical conduit?

Yes, if you are using the SunStat Controls (500670 or 500675) since these superior controls use a Class 1 sensor wire, which is approved for use in the same conduit as the power lead. If you are using any other control, you must run the sensor and power leads separately.

Installing the sensor Wire

The Sensor wire is included with each thermostat control. Install it between the heating elements at an equal distance from each. Place the end approximately 1 foot into the floor. You can shorten the thermostat end of the wire (not the end with the thermistor), or just leave the extra wire in the wall.

Do I need Conduit?

The WarmWire UL Listing allows for the ColdLead to be run inside the wall without conduit. But, conduit makes it very easy to pull the ColdLead from the floor to the SunStats Electric box if the walls are closed. Check your local code! We suggest installing conduit if the walls are open (before drywall).

Will residual dried glue from previous floor covering interfere with my WarmWire installation?

Your WarmWire will be embedded in latex modified thin set mortar. The WarmWire will not be affected by the residual glue.

Can I install vinyl flooring and adhesive in direct contact over WarmWire?

We do not recommend the use of flooring adhesives with WarmWire. They are not designed to withstand the operating temperatures of a radiant floor. Self leveling mortars or latex modified mortars are the preferred bonding coat. Check with the manufacturer of your vinyl floor to see if the product is temperature rated for use with a radiant floor before you begin installing.

Can WarmWire be installed over an isolation membrane or sound control membrane?

Yes. We recommend using our double-sided tape to hold the WarmWire wire to the membrane, then thin-set as you normally would. Many customers have had success with Cork underlayment.

Recommend leveling for my concrete floor before installing WarmWire?

Several major companies make self leveling mortar products. These are mixed with water to a pancake batter consistency and are designed to be poured over uneven spaces to level a floor. WarmWire has been tested with these products and is compatible. You can apply WarmWire to the existing floor and pour self leveling on top and then apply your finished floor, but the deeper the wire is below the surface, the longer it takes to respond from a cold start. You might consider pouring the masonry first, allow it to harden and then use double sided tape to secure the WarmWire wire on top. Then you could apply a thinset and tile/stone finish to the floor.

Should I install aluminized radiant barriers under my WarmWire floor? Will that direct the radiant energy upwards?

We do not think so. To reflect radiant energy upward, you need an air gap. If you install that barrier below the floor (like in the joist bay) and allow for an air gap between it and the subfloor above, then the radiant barrier will help insulate your warm floor. When you install thinset over the WarmWire wire, that masonry bonds to the layer below through the gaps in the orange weave. If you put in a barrier below the wire, you can compromise that bond and actually make your finished floor more subject to cracking.

Can you put WarmWire right on a plywood subfloor without backerboard?

Yes you can. We have the UL listing for direct application on plywood. But, consider using a cement based backerboard on top of the plywood, as recommended by the Tile Council of North America. It costs a little more money, but the TCNA likes it because the thinset bonds better to a cement surface than to a wooden surface. It also stiffens the floor and reduces flexing. Backerboard means less chance of cracked tile over the lifetime of your floor. WarmWire Does Not require backerboard.

What is the overall thickness of a WarmWire installation over an existing plywood floor?

Here are a few rules of thumb:

1. 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch of thinset over the plywood.
2. Then, 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch backerboard.
3. Then, the WarmWire wire.
4. Then 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch thinset over the WarmWire.
5. Finally, 1/4 to 5/16 inch tile.

So, the overall thickness of your completed WarmWire tile floor will be about 7/8″ – 1″ thick. This is only about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thicker than a cold floor without heat.

If I install WarmWire, how do i make sure the finished tile is the same height everywhere?

If you install WarmWire in a portion of a floor, you can spread thinset to make sure the finished tile is the same height everywhere. Use a 3/8 inch x 1/4 inch notched trowel, not a conventional 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch version. When applying thinset over the backerboard, hold the trowel up at a steep angle to apply more thinset. When working over the wire, drop the angle of the trowel somewhat to apply less thinset.

Why do you recommend a 4 to 6 inch space between walls and the edge of the WarmWire wire?

This space next to walls reduces the chance of damage to the wire by in new construction or future remodeling. If these issues are not relevant in your case, it is OK to put wires within 3 inches of the wall. Definitely stay at least 4″ from the toilet ring. Another good reason for the gap is to save you money. In most cases, you do not stand closer than 6” to a wall so you can use less wire by leaving a space.

How close to Windows, Doors, or room openings?

In these cases, you should be closer than 6 inches. Thinks about your room, and where you walk or stand. With French doors to the back yard, you might stand and watch the kids play. Or, at a bathroom or bay window you might stand and look out. In these cases, you would want to get the wire closer to the wall or window.

Can the heating wire be passed through a wall so one continuous wire can serve two rooms?
Does the heating wire have to be in the floor?

No. WarmWire may go through a doorway but never through a wall. UL requires the wire to be embedded in mortar.

Why do I need to use a LoudMouth and an ohm meter to check WarmWire during installation?

Although the wire is extremely tough, it can be damaged during installation. The culprit is often another trade, but it can be the sharp edge of a trowel. When you open your WarmWire box, there is a label that shows the resistance of the wire (each length is different). You need to measure this value with a digital ohm meter before you begin work and when you are finished, and log the readings in your installation manual. During the job, however, you should hook up the LoudMouth which does not give you a resistance value, but does sound an alarm if that value changes suddenly. These two devices work very well together and give you peace of mind during the entire installation. Warm Your Floor offers a low cost Digital Ohm meter if you do not own one.

Why do you recommend I wait up to 28 days to use my new WarmWire system after the thinset, tile and grout are installed?

This is based on the recommendation of thinset and grout manufacturers. Their products require a curing period before the masonry reaches its full strength. This process cannot be rushed by heating and apparently, the process can be adversely affected by the modest temperatures of the heating wires if they are turned on before 28 days (according to the thinset manufacturers).

If I have extra WarmWire wire at the end, can I cut the wire to a shorter size?

No. The wire cannot be cut. You can rearrange it to fit your room, or space it closer together, but never closer than 2 inches. If you find that you have a few feet of wire left over, you can install it around the perimeter of the room or the side or rear of the toilet. Normally this area is not heated, but it is a good place to use up extra wire.

Can I cut the WarmWire heating element if I have too much?

No. That will ruin the WarmWire. Each length uses a different wire size and is built with a specific ohm (resistance) value, so the length must remain as it came from the factory.

Why Can’t I shorten the Heating Wire?

If you shorten the heating element you risk premature failure and overheating. You may shorten ONLY the power lead wire or the sensor wire.

Why can’t I splice wires together or otherwise extend the heating wire?

Since each WarmWire spool uses a specific wire size, extending a wire will risk premature failure and provide too little heat to the floor.

Should I supply the improper voltage to WarmWire?

No. This also is dangerous and should never be done. The WarmWire voltage must match the Line voltage supplied to the thermostat.

Since many of the thermostats are “Dual Voltage” do they convert the power & allow me to mix mats?

No. All voltages must match incoming Line voltage. 240v circuit must be used with only 240v WarmWire. Combining mats of different voltages on a circuit or supplying the incorrect voltage to a mat cannot be done under any circumstances.

Can you recommend a thinset mortar?

Any of the popular water-based latex modified thin-sets will work fine, manufactured by Custom Building Products or Mapei. Buy only dry thinset mortar in bags and mix it up like the pros, into a thick blend that holds to the stirring stick. If you have a big enough job, buy a paddle that inserts into a drill to make mixing easy. The pros use light color thin-set for light color grout and darker thin-set for dark grouts. Avoid all glue-type adhesives meant for vinyl tile or ceramic wall tile. Avoid the pre-mixed mortars, usually sold in buckets at home centers - stick with the powders like a pro.

If I put WarmWire over an existing uninsulated slab, will it perform well?

It should, and usually does, perform well. WarmWire wires give off up to 15 watts per square foot, which is quite a bit of heat.  But sometimes this is not enough to bring your floor up to 80-85 degrees F. Slabs can be quite a drain on floor heating systems depending on the thickness, the sub grade below slab, moisture content, and heat loss from the room or outside temperatures.

If you live in a cold climate and there is a lot of heat loss from the room, we recommend installing our cork underlayment as a thermal break. Bond the cork to the slab with thinset or an adhesive (we recommend Bostik Urethane Adhesive) that is rated for cork & radiant floors and then install WarmWire wires and tile as normal. If the edge of your new radiant slab is exposed to the elements, we recommend you insulate it with a layer of extruded polystyrene. You may also be able to reduce the heat loss from your room by installing higher R-value doors and windows, by reducing air infiltration and by adding ceiling or wall insulation.

Can the LoudMouth monitor several wires at a time?

Yes. Look Here to see how to connect up to three wires together in series to the LoudMouth. Remember to disconnect them before connecting to the SunStat.

What is the recommended procedure to apply thinset over the WarmWire wire?

Start with a good quality latex-modified thinset. Use the flat edge of a 3/8 inch x 1/4 inch notched trowel to push the thinset over and into the wire. Then reverse the trowel and use the “comb” side to rake the mortar over the wire in straight parallel lines. Work in small areas.

Can I apply a skim coat of thinset over my WarmWire, let it dry and then apply another coat before setting the tile?

Yes. Some tile installers would rather work over very flat surfaces and they prefer this two step method. First they cover the WarmWire wire with a self leveling mortar or they apply a level skim coat of thinset over the wire. Once dry, they spread thinset while applying tile. Many installers secure the wire using the straps to the backerboard and immediately apply thinset and tile. This is a one-step method. Both work fine, so it’s a matter of personal preference. In both cases, we recommend using the Loudmouth monitor during the entire installation.

What is the total height of the wire and thinset below a 1/2” thick stone floor?

We recommend using a 3/8 inch x 1/4 inch trowel to apply the thinset over the wire and by the time you have finished, you will be approximately 1/4 inch over the backerboard which is usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. For perimeter areas where there is no WarmWire, you will simply apply a slightly thicker layer of thinset.

Can I put WarmWire under the tub in my bathroom?

We do not recommend it because the heat transfer will be poor below the tub. If it is a Claw foot or other free standing tub, it is acceptable to use up extra wire under this open type of tub.

Can WarmWire be installed under wood floors, laminate flooring or under carpet?

WarmWire radiant wires are UL Listed for use with any type of finished floor if you embed it in at least a quarter inch of masonry. As always, start with a strong subfloor, secure the WarmWire, and cover with a self leveling mortar of your choice. Once this mortar is in place, follow the manufacturer instructions for cure time and then cover with laminate or carpet. A few Self Leveling Compound manufacturers:

• Mapei
• Custom

How close to a toilet can WarmWire be installed?

WarmWire can be installed within 4 to 6 inches of the wax ring and can slightly underlay the foot of the toilet if needed.

Can a damaged heating wire be repaired on the jobsite?

Yes. Ideally, get a licensed electrician to make the repair. Call us toll free and we’ll send your electrician a repair kit. A detailed instruction sheet is also available for direct download. If the wire has not been installed, return it to Warm Your Floor for replacement. If the wire is damaged after installation and it is not feasible to take it up and return it, it can be repaired in the field with a WarmWire Repair Kit.

If a break in the wire is suspected after the tile is installed, it will be necessary to obtain a “Fault Finder” detector, which can help determine the location of a break, typically within 2 SF. A good tile setter can carefully remove the tile and expose the wire. Once you find the break, the electrician will separate the elements of the wire and connect the two sections back together again. Then an ohm reading is taken again. The repaired assembly is then re-embedded below the tile in fresh thinset. Call our toll free number with any questions you have at any part of the process: 866-558-3369 or the factory @ 888-432-8932.

Do I need an extra sensor?

Sometimes a customer will order an extra sensor for peace of mind. Although it’s extremely rare for a sensor to fail, we think it is a reasonable precaution. Run both sensors from the control box to the floor below and then weave them into the wire 6 to 12 inches from the wall. You can put them side by side, but connect only one to the thermostatic control. If you ever need to replace a faulty sensor, you will have one at your fingertips.

I forgot to put the sensor in my floor – what do I do?

You have a couple of options. If your drywall is already in, and your grout lines are at least 1/4” wide, you may run your sensor wire from the control location behind the wall and fish it out through a hole near the floor by using a fish tape or a nail on a string. Use a cutting tool and gently remove the grout from between the tiles for a distance of 6-9 inches into the heated floor. Be careful not to cut too deep and damage a heating wire. Locate the sensor between the tiles, but make sure not to put it directly on top of a blue heating wire. Re-apply grout and then cover the sensor hole in the wall with trim. If your grout lines are not wide enough, or if you are uncomfortable with cutting the grout, you may be able to fish the sensor wire below the subfloor. Use a 1/4” drill bit to carefully drill a pocket under the heated floor in the subfloor up to the underlayment (stop before you get to the wire!). Secure the sensor in the pocket with adhesive and then insulate. Your SunStat will read the floor sensor and you can adjust the temperature to your liking.

Why Should I choose WARMWIRE?

WarmWire Floor heating is a top quality product from the leading manufacturers of Radiant Floor Warming Systems, SunTouch. WarmWire is a more economical solution than SunTouch Mats, because the installer must spend a bit more time installing wire than installing a mat. Some electricians prefer installing wire or cable floor heating systems; it is the oldest method of Electric Floor heating. But, even thought the method is older than the newer mat systems, WarmWire is a technological leader in wire construction and superior materials.

What is the typical operating temperature range for a WarmWire floor?

Radiant floors should not exceed 85 degrees F at the surface. 85 degrees is our skin temperature, so anything warmer starts too feel too warm. Floor coverings other than stone or tile REQUIRE a maximum temperature below 85 F. Most people are very comfortable between 75-80 degrees F.

Can the WarmWire system in my sunroom keep up with sudden temperature changes outside?

All slab-type radiant systems work best if you do not use an “on or off” strategy to control the temperature. Instead, use modern, programmable, floor sensing thermostatic control that turns the temperature down (called a “setback”) to a preset temperature when the floor is satisfied, but keeps residual heat in the slab to respond quickly when the floor starts to cool off. Each home is different, but start with a 5 degree F setback to see if the room responds the way you want. If not, you can adjust the floor temperature, setback temperature and lead time features of the programmable thermostat to get the performance you want. Try the Programmable SunStat and we think you will be very pleased. For smaller areas, say under 30 square feet, you might just want to install a non-programmable control and leave it on throughout the heating season.

What objects can I put on top of my WarmWire warmed tile?

WarmWire cannot be installed below built-ins, cabinets or walls, but rugs, hampers, scales and waste cans are OK when your finished floor is stone or ceramic. The area under the rug or other objects will get warmer, but will not cause any damage to the WarmWire or masonry floors. If you use any other type of flooring other than ceramic however, check with the floor manufacturer to make sure their product is suitable for a radiant floor and the objects commonly found on them.

Can one Thermostat control 2 or more separate WarmWire wires?

You can connect up to 3 wires totaling 150 Sq Ft of 120V and 300 Sq Feet of 240V WarmWire wire to one SunStat (15 Amp Load). More than 3 wires makes for an unsafe wire connection in the electrical box and violates most electric codes. So, keep it to 3 wires or less — simply choose larger wires from our broad selection of sizes. You could also use a series of junction boxes to connect more wires to one SunStat, but this is seldom necessary or cost effective when you can simply choose the right wires for your project. Or, let us help you choose the correct wires.

How important is insulation to the performance of my radiant system?

It can be very important. If you are installing WarmWire in a bathroom over a frame floor, you would be smart to make sure the joists below the tile floor are insulated with fiberglass batts. Your floor will respond faster and you will waste less energy. If you are putting WarmWire on an existing slab, make sure you insulate any exposed edges with extruded polystyrene insulation. Or, place cork underlayment over the slab before you secure the WarmWire. If you are installing WarmWire in new construction, put insulation below the slab and at the perimeter.

We highly recommend the use of our cork insulation between a slab and the WarmWire wires. This thermal break will allow your WarmWire floor warming system to warm up your floor quicker and be more efficient.

If I use WarmWire wires under a ceramic floor without a thermostat control, is there danger of fire?

WarmWire wires are Listed by Underwriters Laboratory and the focus of U.L. testing is fire and shock prevention. Of course, you must install your system according to WarmWire installation instructions as well as all local building and electrical codes. If you operate your system without a thermostat, your floor could become uncomfortably warm and your operating costs could be higher than necessary, but it would not have a risk of fire if otherwise installed correctly. Your best option is a WarmWire Programmable SunStat PRO. This solid state control has several safety features built-in; floor sensor and air temperature sensors, clock and timer functions, GFCI for safety and a relay that allows control of up to 150 square feet of 120vac wire or 300 square feet of 240vac wire.

How long does it take to warm my WarmWire floor from a cold start?

In a new installation, the wire is working to warm the entire cold mass of the floor. Framed floors (raised) heat up quickly– usually it takes about 30-60 minutes. A slab can take a day or longer to come up to temperature, depending on the conductivity and moisture content of the slab and the material below the slab. If your radiant floor is over a heated space and there is not much heat loss from the room, these times are reduced significantly. Once you program your Programmable SunStat PRO control however, you will not worry about timing issues. The SunStat has the ability to learn how long the floor takes to reach the comfort temperature, and will automatically start the control early to reach this temperature at the programmed time using state-of-the-art “Fuzzy Logic”. This “Early Start” feature is unique to the SunStat PRO.

Will the heated area below WarmWire wire behave differently than the unheated area around it?

The temperature difference between your heated areas and non-heated area will not cause a problem; but the unheated portions of the floor will feel much colder. WarmWire floors should not be operated above a surface temperature of 85 degrees F. This setting is perfect for warming your feet and warming your space, but not enough to damage your floor.

How much does my WarmWire system cost to operate?

Install the floor sensing WarmWire control so you use only enough energy to do the job and nothing more. When your floor is warm, the control turns off the floor warming system. On average, the electricity to the floor is on about 2/3 of the time. You can also use a WarmWire programmable control to make sure your floor system is off when you are at work or asleep. And, it contains a manual override and a Vacation setting.

How warm does my WarmWire floor get when it’s operating?

Most people prefer about 75 to 80 degrees F. but 85 degrees is the suggested upper limit. The SunStat will accept a temperature setting of up to 99 F, but that is much too warm for the system. Using a WarmWire floor sensing thermostat you can set the temperature to your liking and set an upper limit of 85 F so you do not Warm Your Floor too high.

How much electricity does my WarmWire wire use?

A 10 Sq. Foot wire uses only 120 watts, the same amount of electricity as two 60 watt light bulbs. As an example, an average 100 square foot bathroom with 50 square feet of WarmWire uses about 10 cents per day if it operates 6-8 hours each day at a utility rate of 10 cents per kilowatt/hour. If you operate the floor more than a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening, then your cost will be more.

Unlike most of its synthetic alternative competitors the AcoustiCORK R60 underlayment has the ability to keep its acoustic and thermal insulation performance over many years. The physical structure of cork, with nearly 200 million completely sealed air filled cells per cubic inch makes it a very effective insulating material. This same physical structure also provides cork with the ability to be repeatedly compressed and yet recover nearly 100% of its original shape and size.

Click Here for Cork Installation Details…

Why AcoustiCORK R60 as insulation for electric radiant floor heating?

Amorim Industrial Solutions, manufacturer of AcoustiCORK has THE biggest market share in Insulation Cork at 80% Worldwide! That is why Warm Your Floor offers their products exclusively. And, we have a long history together. I first did business with the U.S.A. division in 1985; they offered quality products 20 years ago and still do today.

They have a Direct presence in the countries that produce the raw material – affiliates (all situated in the cork forest zones) in Portugal, Spain, Morocco and Tunisia, allowing diversification of sources and control of the flow of the raw material

They maintain Local operations for the integrated production of the raw material – unique centers for the acquisition, selection, classification and standardization of the raw material before its manufacture; this ensures quality throughout the manufacturing process.

Amorim’s Research and development is ongoing. Highly sophisticated Research and Development facilities follow rigorous scientific procedures & ongoing continuous improvement. ISO 9001 Quality Certificate

AcoustiCORK’s reputation is unparalled. AcoustiCORK PRODUCTS^TM are recognized in the building industry as a leading & effective sound control, thermal insulation and crack suppression underlayment used under hard surface floors. Residential and commercial projects throughout the United States, Canada and Europe have used AcoustiCORK^TM with excellent success.

AcoustiCORK^TM R60 is designed to meet building codes and condominium association requirements for floor/ceiling assemblies using ceramic tile, marble, stone or hardwood floors.

Testing Proves it: Structural Testing has proven AcoustiCORK R60 is an excellent product.

AcoustiCORK^TM has been tested in accordance with ASTM standards for acoustical values at Riverbank Acoustical Laboratories, an independent laboratory accredited by the National Bureau of Standards of the U.S. Dept. of Commerce and NVLAP (National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program). Whew! That is a mouthful of agencies.

In the Flooring Industry, the most important test standard is the Robinson Wheel. This is an ASTM test and AcoustiCORK® R60 passed with flying colors for use in ALL residential applications, including CONCRETE SLAB and an even higher commercial rating when used over Concrete Board.

Robinson Wheel Testing Details:

6mm Gyp-Crete Residential Robinson Test

CBU 6mm Light Commercial Robinson Test (CBU=Concrete Board Underlayment, i.e. HardiBacker®)

Additional PHYSICALTESTING & Certifications. Test data is certified by the following organizations:

ICBO Evaluation Report Number ER5314

City Of Los Angeles Research Report Number RR25323-A

Physical and Mechanical Properties of AcoustiCORK R60

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Agglomerated cork underlay for increased thermal efficiency & foot comfort of the final floor.

PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES (ISO 7322)

Specific weight: 150-220Kg/m3
Tensile strength (kPa): >200KPa
Compression: 30-50%
Recovery: >70%
Durability: Lifetime of the building

R60 Cork FAQ

Is it totally safe to use AcoustiCORK under ceramic tiles?

Yes, it is. AcoustiCORK R60 underlayment is safe, tested and designed for use under ceramic tile and stone floors. For over 20 years, satisfied customers have been successfully installing them all over the USA as well as in Europe. AcoustiCORK stops the minor cracks in the concrete from showing up in the tile, provide effective impact sound and thermal insulation and use adhesives and procedures approved by ceramic tile manufacturers. The TCNA (Tile Council of North America) references the product specifications of AcoustiCORK in its Installation Handbook for Direct Bonding Ceramic Tiles to Cork Underlayment (F (1-35-06)

Ecology and sustainability are becoming increasingly important in the USA. Does the company hold any certification?

Cork, the raw material of all AcoustiCORK underlayment, is a gift from Nature. Amorim Cork Composites adopts sustainable development practices that are unparalleled in the cork industry. The company holds a Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) chain-of-custody certificate as well as several quality certificates like the NP EN ISO 9001:2000, the OSHAS 18001: 199 and the Systecode - CIPR. We are currently in the final stage of implementation for the NP EN ISO 14001.

Where can I find detailed installation instructions of the AcoustiCORK R60?

Complete details are available by clicking here

Will R60 Cork Underlayment “swell” with exposure to moisture and cause finish floor coverings to fail?

NO! Because our cork absorbs almost ZERO water it is very dimensionally stable. When exposed to 100% Relative Humidity conditions for an entire 30 days the dimensional change in our AcoustiCORK products is less than 3%. In the 6mm (1/4″) R60, this would represent an increase in thickness of less than 7 thousands of an inch; about the thickness of a human hair.

What about Electric Radiant Floor Heating?

Americans have been using floor warming since the late 1980s when the first floor warming mats were introduced. In Europe, electric cables were first used for floor warming in the 1930s and there are several buildings in Norway with electric systems installed in the 1950s still in use today – over 50 years!

What are the popular types of Radiant Heating?

1. Hydronic (using water heated by a boiler pumped throughout the floor)
2. Electric (direct conversion of electricity into heat energy using resistance wires)

Hydronic systems use a boiler to heat the water and transport it through a complex series of piping, pumps, valves, expansion tanks, controls, etc. to your floor. This is an elaborate plumbing system with water pipes throughout your floor. Hydronic systems are typically serviced annually by a professional. See a photo of a typical Hydronic panel.

Electric floor heating quickly and easily installs beneath your floor covering and is switched on and off by a Thermostat which senses the floor and/or air temperature and reacts accordingly. The thermostats are most often fully programmable with built in programs and a timer. No moving parts, no maintenance and no plumbing leaks.

What is “Radiant Heat”?

Hold your hand over a cup of hot coffee and feel the warmth. A common conclusion is that heat rises. Logical maybe, but incorrect! “Hot air” rises but heat travels in any direction. That is why you can feel the heat of the cup when you place your hand to the side too. Radiant energy transfer is caused by a warm surface giving up its heat to a cooler surface. When there is a temperature difference between two surfaces, both surfaces will attempt to equalize.

Radiant energy from the sun travels through space without heating the vacuum of space itself. It only turns into heat when it contacts a cooler surface or object. Our comfort relies on radiant heat transfer just as it does on air temperature, yet the majority of heating and air-conditioning professionals think only in terms of air temperature.

How is heat transferred?

Heat is transferred from one location or object, to another by 3 basic methods; Convection, Conduction and Radiant Heat.

One basic rule to all three modes is this: heat does not rise, hot air rises. Heat moves from a hot source to a cold source. Think of a hot air balloon. It floats because the hot air inside is less dense than the cool air outside. This literally causes the balloon to float in much the same way a boat floats on water.

Another way to think of this is to imagine a cast iron skillet placed on a stove burner. When the burner is turned on the handle is still cool to the touch, but as the bottom of the pan warms, the heat moves from this now warm source, to the cooler outer edges. Eventually the handle will become too hot to handle and a pot holder will be required to handle the skillet.

The 3 modes of Heat Transfer explained

Convection is what most of us know the best. This is how forced air heating systems or baseboard systems transfers heat into a space. Air moves over a heating element, becomes warmer and expands into the space. In a forced air environment, most of the hot air is at the ceiling (the same reason the hot air balloon rises). So, warm air in a room heated with forced air ends up at the ceiling. Convective heat transfer is the least efficient means to transfer energy.

Conductive heat transfer relies on two surfaces touching each other. Imagine that cast iron pan on the stove. If your hand is positioned an inch above the hot handle, you really won’t feel much heat from the handle, and you can keep your hand there as long as you wish. But, when you touch the handle, your hand instantly begins to feel hot (let go!). This is conductive heat transfer. The pan is giving off the energy (heat) in the handle to your hand in a very fast, efficient manner. Conduction is a very efficient mode of heat transfer.

Radiant heat transfer is the best because it isn’t slowed down by air. Radiant energy is only felt when the energy wave strikes another surface. This means the surrounding surfaces all reach set temperature. By surrounding your body with warm surfaces, we can better control how our bodies lose heat. Radiant floor heat means more comfort and higher efficiency. And the heat is where you need it. High ceilings and many windows are a primary reason Radiant heat is chosen as a building heating system. Radiant heats you, your family and the objects and surfaces around you. In contrast to the efficiency of Radiant, forced air heating systems allow all of the nice, usable heat to accumulate at the ceiling since hot air rises.

Why do some contractors discourage radiant floor heating?

There are a few contractors who object to Radiant Floor Heat. Anyone involved in the building or remodeling process who is not experienced with radiant floors may be hesitant. This is a normal, protective reaction encountered in architects, engineers, builders, plumbers, electricians, mechanical contractors and anyone else who has input into your project that might be affected. By voicing an objection they are really saying, “I don’t know enough about radiant floors, so I do not feel comfortable working with them Fortunately, we will always take the opportunity to educate you, your contractor, or anyone involved who has questions.”

So, call on us to educate them or choose a contractor who is familiar or willing to learn. Working with professionals and contractors who are NOT familiar with the systems will result in inflated costs and a potentially poor installation. Get help! We have videos, DVDs, excellent installation manuals and trade associations that can help.

Remember, you are the one that will live in your home, not the contractor. It all comes back to your desire for comfort and energy savings. Use a reputable supplier and installer and your result will be a level of comfort you may not have thought possible. Our experience shows homeowners who choose radiant floor heating rarely go back to forced air systems in the future. The comfort and convenience is that superior!

What are some of the benefits of Radiant Floor Heating?

• Efficiency and heat where you need it; not wasted at the ceiling.
• Silence. The systems are virtually silent – no furnace, blowers or motors. Just warmth felt but not heard.
• Invisible. Hidden beneath the floor there are no design concerns and not hot or cold spots in a room.
• Superior zoning. Heat where and when you need it.
• Clean & Healthy. No airborne contaminants are circulated throughout your home, like with forced air.

Why choose Hydronic?

Hydronic heating makes the most sense in new construction where you will heat the entire house with the radiant floor heating system and have room for all the mechanical equipment and a source of fuel other than electricity.

Electric Radiant Floor Heating and Building inspectors, Energy rules and Title 24

Occasionally a local building inspector has a question about floor heating installation, although this is becoming less frequent as our systems become more popular. Any questions can usually be cleared up by bringing a few key facts to their attention. Show them the product and the attached safety labels and details.

1. ALL of our Floor Warming Systems are UL and/or CSA listed. These approvals are accepted throughout N. America. This is NOT TRUE with all products sold elsewhere; choosing Warm Your Floor means safe products.
2. ALL of the Thermostats & Controls we offer have GFCI protection Built-In and are also tested by at least 1 of the independent testing laboratories (UL, CSA, or ETL) and listed for safety.
3. Millions of Electric Floor Warming products have been safely installed in the USA & Canada for decades.

California Title 24 and Electric Radiant Read More Here

What Floor coverings can be used with Radiant Heat?

Virtually all of them! Tile (ceramic, porcelain,Glass,etc) and Natural Stone(Marble,Slate,Granite,Travertine,etc) are the most common. But Wood Floors, Laminate, Carpet, Vinyl and Linoleum can all be used but small adjustments in installation methods may be necessary.

My Contractor says using radiant with Wood Floors will cause problems. Your thoughts?

This is a common misconception. But 2 major Wood Flooring associations, NOFMA and NWFA say differently.

• NOFMA (National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Association) deals primarily with SOLID floor products, which are typically installed over Hydronic systems.
• NWFA (National Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association).
• Carlisle Wood Flooring is a major manufacturer of Wide Plank Flooring.
• Radiant Panel Association Has also done research.

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Floor Heating and Flooring Industry and Associations Links National Kitchen and Bath Association – We’ll help you plan your Floor Heat, but here are resources for other kitchen and bath design needs – A terrific resource.

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Ceramic Tile and Stone Consultants (CTaSC) A National Service Company providing Job Problem Services, Quality Control Services for Product and Installation Methods, Training Programs, Market Research and Outsourcing Services, and Business Planning Consulting to the Ceramic Tile and Stone Industry. Privately Owned & Operated by Donato Pompo CTC CSI CDT MBA.

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• Is Electric Floor warming SAFE ?
• How does Electric Radiant Floor Heating Work?
• How long can we expect our floor heating system to last?
• How much electricity does electric floor heating use?
• What are the Voltage and Amperage requirements for floor heating?
• Are your floor warming systems easy to install?
• What type of flooring can I install over electric floor heating systems?
• Should I insulate under the floor warming system?
• Why do you offer more than one floor warming system?
• Can I buy floor warming direct from you?
• Can I cut the floor heating wire shorter?
• Can I Splice Heating Cables together?

Is Electric Floor warming SAFE ?

Yes! At least we can say that about the systems we sell, since they have all passed more safety tests than any of our competitors. UL and CSA certifications, Robinson Floor Test (for durability) and rated by The Tile Council of North America (SunTouch) attest to the safety of our products. All our Thermostats have been safety certified by independent testing agencies and all include GFCI protection BUILT-IN for shock protection. And, unlike our competitors, have NEVER had a safety recall for our electric floor heating products.

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How does Electric Radiant Floor Heating Work?

The heating wires are specially engineered and designed so they provide heat via the specific wire’s electrical resistance. Special insulation is used to provide protection and durability to the heating wires. When the thermostat is turned on (or the timer is activated) electricity is sent to the floor heating system, the wires heat up, and in turn heats up the floor. This heat then radiates from the ground up throughout the room, heating objects and people within the heated area. That’s exactly what you want from your system; a warm floor and a warm body; energy is not wasted heating up air that then rises to the ceiling and is lost.

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How long can we expect our floor heating system to last?

All of our systems carry at least a 25 Year warranty and are backed by strong manufacturers who have been in the floor heating business for 20 to 78 years. With the superior wire construction these companies use, the systems have a long expected life, considering they are encased and protected within the mortar under the flooring. A warranty of less than 25 years is simply nonsense!

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Are your floor warming systems easy to install?

Our systems are easy to install, safe to use. Some of our products are so easy to work with that even a weekend do-it-yourselfer can install them. Over 50% of Floor warming installations are done by First Time Installers. Or, your own contractor can easily manage installation with the help of our “how to” DVD’s, and complete, step-by-step installation instructions. Either way, we are here to answer any questions or provide installation tips-for you and your contractor.

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What type of flooring can I install over electric floor heating systems?

Virtually any floor covering can be heated by our systems. While tile and stone floors are the most common heated floors, you can also heat hardwood floors (glued or floated), Laminates, Vinyl or linoleum, Bamboo, Cork, even carpet. Concrete floors can also be heated by placing one system within the new concrete pour. Be sure to read the installation instructions for specifics of how to properly install floor heat for your particular application and floor covering. Or, call us toll free and we’ll answer all your radiant floor heating questions!

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Should I insulate under the floor warming system?

In most cases, the insulation that is already in your floor will be adequate. If there is no insulation under your frame floor, we do recommend adding it.

For Concrete floors, we always recommend Cork insulation. Concrete slabs absorb part of the heat generated by the floor warming system so less heat is transferred to the flooring. Heat always moves toward colder surfaces, so it goes both up & down when the floor warming system is in direct contact with a slab. But, adding a simple layer of cork between the slab & floor heating provides a “thermal break” reducing the flow of heat into the slab and allowing MORE HEAT transfer into the flooring. Installing insulation on top of slab translates into more heat, faster response times and less energy used; a wise investment. And OUR cork is Engineered, Tested and Approved for use under tile and wood floors.

There are a few other insulation materials available, but Cork is our favorite, since it is a natural product and a renewable resource, unlike other insulating products. And you can buy this specially engineered Cork insulation directly from us.

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Why do you offer more than one floor warming system?

In our 7 years selling Electric Radiant Heating Systems, we have found that no single manufacturer offers a complete solution for every project. We’ve researched a number of radiant floor heating products available on the market, and have chosen to carry only the highest quality products from the top manufacturers. There are cheaper radiant heat floor warming products on the market, but we won’t sell them. We’ve researched, tested, and installed all of the products we carry. And we’re confident that they are the best products for the money. But most importantly, we’re passionate about adding warmth to your home. From the ground up. Making sure you chose the right product for your specific application is only one of the ways we assure you’re completely satisfied with your new warm floor.

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Can I buy floor warming direct from you?

Absolutely. Warm Your Floor has the largest inventory of floor warming products in the U.S., in stock and ready for immediate delivery. That means your project won’t meet costly delays waiting for product to arrive. Send us your room layout, and we’ll recommend, design and quote a floor-warming system specifically for you.

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Can I cut the floor heating wire shorter?

No. Never. Period. You may also shorten the cold lead or the thermostat sensor wire, but DO NOT cut the heating wire on purpose. If you cut the wire by mistake, we offer a special Wire Repair Kit.

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Can I Splice Heating Cables together?

No, never combine systems of different voltages.  Damage can result. Also never cut the heating cable.  The 10-ft. power lead may be cut shorter if necessary, but never removed from the heating cable.

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Read More about “Why Radiant Heating” here, including Hydronic (water) radiant heating, the history of radiant heating and other related subjects.

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